Sunday, June 28, 2009

Las Indiginas

To stress the importance of cultural integration, the PC sent us to various indigenous communities these last two days. I was picked to go to Carabuela, a small little town whose economy relies heavily on handicraft sales. And so the adventure begins!

We arrived early Friday morning and spent the better part of the morning learning the entire process of making knitted clothing. It was pretty interesting because they allowed us to participate in all the steps. First, they cut the wool from the sheep, then washed it in the river and hung it up to dry. After a couple hours, we took the clean wool and teased it with big combs until it was in long fluffy tubes. We then spun the wool tubes into yarn, which was used to crochet or knit the goods. So in theory I could make my own sweater with a sheep, scissors and a crochet needle!

After the yarn making, we walked around the town observing various other trades. We made bread in a traditional wood oven, watched a man make shoes from twine and saw a woman making pottery from clay she literally dug up from the ground.

That night, we all gathered at the shaman's house, and he did a 'cleaning ritual' on us to banish bad spirits. The process is quite simple if you would like to try this at home:

1) Make an alter out of stones
2) Spit chicha (fermented banana liquor) on foot-long plants
3) Smoke a cigarette
4) Smack the cleansing recipient's body from head to toe with the plants (linger on those who are especially full of bad spirits)
5) Spit more chicha on their feet

He didn't spend too much time on me, so I guess my soul was relatively clean.

After the shaman, we were herded to the community center for dinner and general festivities. As guests of honor, we were served an Ecuadorian delicacy: guinea pig (cuy). I was quite disappointed with my portion because I received a piece of the back which doesn't offer much meat... After the meal, we danced to bands that played native music and watched a group of locals perform a traditional dance- all the while we passed around a big bottle of chicha for shots.

The party ended around midnight, and here is where the night took a turn for the worst. Apparently the planning committee didn't think too hard on sleeping arrangements, as we slept on concrete floors. Combine that with arctic weather, a general lack of blankets, a homeless handicapped man blowing a whistle outside the house till 4am, a girl banging on the door in search of her mother, a man loudly vomiting downstairs and frequent dog barking-- one might have problems sleeping... I really wished I braved a few more shots of chicha. Naturally I woke up a little pissy, only to discover they don't drink coffee. Let’s just say I was quite happy to leave after we ate lunch...

All-in-all, the trip was a successful; I came back with a couple hand-made hats, a bag and added a few Quichua words to my vocab. Fun times in Carabuela!

When I woke up this morning at 8am (which is very late given my new sleep schedule), I was taught how to do laundry. But don´t you already know how to wash your clothes Jason?!? Yes, I do know how to operate a washing machine, however that´s not an option here… Washing clothes by hand is really not as time consuming as it seems though; It takes about as much time as a machine. Granted, its more labor intensive, but the clothes get cleaner in my opinion. This is just one in a series of things that never crossed my mind when thinking about life in the PC :P

After the laundry fun, I went to mass, which is different than in the States. The order is the same (although it’s in Spanish) but the people literally talk throughout the entire mass… Literally, during the Homily I had trouble hearing the priest for all the noise. Another difference was that relatively few people took communion. I would guess that only 30% of the participants partook. Also, instead of offering the blood separately, the priest dips the host in the wine and will only put it in your mouth. I plan to go weekly, so hopefully that assuages Mom and Grandma´s worries.

Now I´m off to the fiesta! Today is one of the bigger fiestas for San Pedro. Hooray for dancing!!!

5 comments:

  1. They drank the chicha, then spit it out onto the plants -- what a waste of fermented beverage! Can't wait to hear about the fiesta --any significance to the masks? I figured you might go to church, my Mom always said it's a great place to meet people, and Cookie will agree! Sharing common, deeply-held beliefs, even while being so culturally different, is a wonderful bonding opportunity, and a lesson for us all that people are people, everywhere. Interesting that they seem to take more seriously than us the rule about being free of sin to take communion. Maybe we should take our sins more seriously, too...(what a thing to say right before fiesta, HAVE FUN!)

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  2. HAHAHA i just read that aloud to micro!!! they all giggled and awed!! i think tey want some of that chicha to be honest... ill trade you some instant coffee packs for it ;) your keeping us entertained and i have you bookmark up here on the cpu by the trichromes lol have fun be safe

    MMMUUUAAAH < from sammye
    (she said she is our biggest fan and you dont even know it)

    love Caitlin :)

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  3. Finally!!! I read your blog a couple days ago, but the internet's been down and I finally just got on! Sounds like you had a crazy weekend! That cleansing ritual sounds an awful lot like a headache banishing ritual or whatever it was called, but minus the cemetary dirt! :P

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  4. Oh, that's me ^ by the way...don't know why blogger decided to change my name, grrr....

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  5. um, so that wasn't very helpful...the "me" above and above that? Is Erin. Whoops, sorry!

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